Ottawa Canyon

Ottawa Fall

The spire of ice gives its last hello. Its wounds of melt leaves trails for its flow to run down through. Each swing of my axe gives way to slush, to pour, to water. And with more, blocks the size of talus crash onto its frozen body below.

Coming back from my Winona trip I realized the conditions in Illinois were perfect yet decaying for a potential ice climb in Starved Rock State Park. We chose the stubby fall at Ottawa Canyon since I remember it being shorter in height, maybe giving it more structure. Arriving we were greeted by its decaying state, bleeding its mass slowly it was still a proper climb. I raced up to find a route to set up a toprope and rappelled down. Darkness was approaching so haste was necessary. Ready, I began to climb. Sticks that feel perfect on strike but wobble milliseconds after. Coming up halfway now, the pillar bleeds significantly leaving me drenched. Each swing now kicks back slush that stings the unshielded eyes. Over the bulge, a significant rest and low angle scramble. A lower down and another variation.

Thinking about it, this will be a more memorable climb. To climb in a park I've thoroughly explored. To climb with my partner. Pillars of ice i've seen and daydreamed of scaling finally possible. Sadly, with the wave of heat that will erode this winter, the climbing season is gone for now. I can only hope for the thermometer to ice over for long again